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Of all the cities in the world, only Paris comes remotely close to matching Venice in terms of sheer beauty and romance. You’ve seen it in photos and films, but there’s no substitute for the reality — the shimmering Grand Canal, the gondolas slipping down watery alleyways, the elegant palazzos emerging straight from the sea.
Venice once ruled the Mediterranean as a shipping power, amassing vast wealth and producing some of Europe’s greatest artistic and cultural treasures. But over the centuries Venice has declined a bit and now has less than half the population it had at its peak. What remains of its former grandeur — the crumbling palaces, the sumptuous art in its museums and churches, the fantastic rituals of Carnevale — makes Venice a living tribute to the past.
Aside from a number of charming squares, such as the famous Piazza San Marco, Venice is mostly comprised of a warren of narrow canals and streets spread over more than 100 islands. These tangled passageways are an attraction among themselves. There are few better cities to simply get lost in, particularly if you want to escape the tourist hordes that clog the main arteries around San Marco and the Rialto Bridge.
So once you’ve seen the major sights, fold up your map and set off on foot. You’ll discover pretty, residential neighborhoods with colorful flowerboxes in the windows and clean laundry billowing in the breeze. You’ll discover tiny trattorias where the locals enjoy the catch of the day. And, away from the vaporetti (water taxis) and motorboat traffic on the Grand Canal, you’ll discover one more pleasure of this place, aptly dubbed La Serenissima — the unexpected quiet of a city without cars.
 What to See
 Piazza San Marco: According to Napoleon, this gracious plaza was Europe’s first drawing room. It’s a huge piazza surrounded by the Basilica di San Marco, the Torre dell’Orologio clock tower and the arcade of Procuratie Vecchie and Nuove. The basilica is the primary tourist attraction; plan to wait in line during high season. It dates back to 1094 and represents a range of architectural styles, such as Byzantine, Romanesque and Renaissance. (Note: You will be denied entry to this and many other Italian churches if your attire is deemed inappropriate — be sure your knees and shoulders are covered.)
Also check out the Bell Tower, a 324-foot structure originally built in the 10th century. It had to be rebuilt early in the 20th century when it completely collapsed. Climb to the top for a great city view. Almost as much of a Piazza tradition is a visit to one of the square’s two famous cafes — Caffe Florian and Gran Caffe Ristorante Quadri. Their outside tables offer fabulous people-watching; just be prepared for the stiff prices. Incidentally, San Marco is as big an attraction for pigeons as it is for people — you may want to wear a hat.
Art galleries abound in Venice. The best-known include Gallerie dell’ Accademia, featuring Venetian art from the 14th to 18th centuries and the Peggy Guggenheim Collection for contemporary masterpieces and sculpture. Guggenheim was an American who resided in the Palazzo; she and her dogs are buried out back in the sculpture garden. The Scuola Grande di San Rocco features the work of Venetian artist Tintoretto.
The Venetian equivalent of a superhighway, the S-shaped Grand Canal runs through the heart of the city. It offers fabulous views of palazzos that date back to the 12th century and line the waterway. The best way to traverse the Grand Canal is via vaporetto, line #1. The Grand Canal also divides the city, in a way; the east side contains most of the best-known tourist attractions (San Marco Square, et al.), while the western part is generally more residential, boasting wonderful trattorias and local shops. Pedestrians can cross over the canal in just three places: Rialto Bridge, Accademia Bridge and Scalzi Bridge.
Venice’s lovely cathedrals and churches are too numerous to count; among the highlights (besides the basilica) are Chiesa di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari (Campo dei Frari, San Polo), a huge 14th/15th-century Gothic church, and the 17th-century Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute (Punta della Dogana, Dorsoduro).
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 Yes, it’s the ultimate touristy thing to do, but a gondola ride is also incredibly romantic (particularly at sunset). And it also offers a different perspective of Venice — from the water, along tiny canals, where vaporetti cannot go. Gondolas typically take anywhere from two to six people, and you pay per trip, not per person. The ride lasts anywhere from 30 to 50 minutes. Negotiate the rate before you get in, and plan to shell out about 80 euros.
First-timers who are interested in glass-making should trek to the island of Murano. (Boats run on a regular schedule from San Marco Square.) You can see the process and technique of glass-making, and there’s a gift shop. Although you don’t have to go to Murano to buy glass designed by Murano and other artisans (numerous shops and galleries sell it), for the best selection — from traditional to quite contemporary pieces — you really should venture to the island.
A bit farther afield is the charming island village of Burano, known for its brightly colored houses and its exquisite handmade lace. (Note: These days, not all lace for sale there is made locally; be sure to ask before buying.) A Lace Museum (Museo del Merletto) is there if you want to learn a bit more about the art and history of lace-making. And don’t worry if your cruise won’t take you to Pisa — Burano’s campanile, or bell tower, has its own distinct tilt.
Giudecca, an island facing Venice (so you get gorgeous views), is where wealthy Venetians built their residences and where many locals have settled, as Venice itself has become tourist-clogged and expensive. Check out Chiesa del Redentore, built in the 16th century.
The Lido, serviced by the vaporetti and fronting both the Venice Lagoon and the Adriatic sea, is Venice’s beach island. It’s a great place to escape the summer heat.
Want to pilot your own gondola? Take a lesson. If you’re looking for a connection to a local’s Venice, try the Venetian Club. It aims to introduce small groups of travelers to local arts and recreation. On a recent trip there, a two-hour lesson on rowing — Venetian style — offered not just a great excuse to get out on the water but also an introduction into a distinctive local tradition.
 Where to Eat
Between its proximity to the sea and its long history of fine cuisine, Venice is a great place to get an unforgettable meal, particularly a fresh seafood dinner. If you’re looking for quick, cheap eats, pizzerias abound; or you can seek out a Venetian specialty — tramezzini, crustless triangular sandwiches that you’ll find in just about any bar or cafe. For a more luxurious dinner out, you’ll find plenty of excellent seafood restaurants serving up the catch of the day.
Tip: For fish dishes, many menus list the price per 100 grams rather than the full price of the dish; ask your server to clarify what your meal will cost before ordering.
Considering its location just a five-minute walk from the famous Rialto fish market, it’s no surprise that seafood is a particular specialty at Osteria Antico Giardinetto — think pumpkin gnocchi with lobster and red chicory or cuttlefish in ink sauce with polenta. The atmosphere is warm and romantic too.
Traditional Venetian dishes are on the menu at La Caravella — like Venetian-style fish soup, oven-roasted turbot with potatoes and olives, and homemade pasta with duck ragout. The courtyard is a lovely spot for a meal when the weather is warm.
A favorite among locals rather than tourists, the cozy Ristoteca Oniga has a menu of seafood, meats and pastas that change daily and reflect the philosophy of the Slow Food movement, which is all about taking your time to savor each meal. Bring your phrasebook — the menu is all in Italian.
You’ll find delicious, affordable pizzas and pastas at Al Nono Risorto (Santa Croce 2337). If the weather is pleasant, sit outside in the attractive garden courtyard.
It’s worth the trip to Giudecca to enjoy a meal at the fabulous Hotel Cipriani. (The hotel offers a free water shuttle from Piazza San Marco.) At lunchtime, eat at the poolside restaurant. For dinner, try the Cip’s Club, an outdoor pizzeria-grill with tables that sit on a deck right on the lagoon. Tip: Reservations for the Cip’s Club absolutely need to be made in advance.
There’s also a branch of the famed Harry’s on Giudecca. While it’s breathtakingly expensive (think 34 euros for a pasta entree), the food is marvelous, the ambience is authentically Venetian and fellow diners are mostly locals.
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Where to Stay
 Venice is home to many genuinely charming and luxurious hotels, though you shouldn’t expect particularly large rooms. If you’re on a moderate budget, look for the word “locanda,” which means “inn” in Italian; generally these properties represent a good value. In terms of neighborhoods, the city’s least expensive hotels tend to be clustered near the train station. Be warned that many properties in Venice do not have air conditioning; if you’re traveling over the summer, be sure to ask ahead. Advance reservations are highly recommended at almost any time of year.
If you’re looking for total luxury, there are many, many options, but we’ll offer a few suggestions. The lush, vibrant Danieli fronts the lagoon, and parts of it date back to the 15th century. The Metropole is a small, chic hotel, also located on the lagoon. On the island of Giudecca, Hotel Cipriani is Venice’s most deluxe hotel and is the only one with a pool and tennis court (not to mention its own vineyards).
On a more moderate budget? Especially good for families, not to mention singles or couples on budgets, is Locanda Novo, located near the Rialto Bridge. Other reasonably priced options include Hotel Violino d’Oro and Pensione Accademia.
On our last trip, we stayed on Giudecca at the Domina Home Giudecca (Corte Ferrando 409); the three-star, 58-room hotel was scrupulously clean, had superb staffers and was nicely located at the junction of two canals — a five-minute walk to the nearest vaporetto stop.
The relatively new Hilton Molino Stucky, located on Giudecca Island, is a beautifully restored hotel that’s housed in a former flour mill. Offering tons of ambience, a rooftop pool and bar, a couple of excellent restaurants, comfy rooms with all the latest gadgets, and views over Venice that are so compelling it’ll be hard to leave, it’s like staying on a cruise ship — on land. The added bonus for cruise ship lovers is that it’s right on the waterway that ships take to come in to port — and go back out again.
 Where to Shop
Venice is best known for its Carnevale masks, Murano glass and Burano lace. Glass objects in particular make great souvenirs and range from inexpensive glass necklaces — sold on the street for about $5 — to elaborate barware and chandeliers. If you’re a non-E.U. citizen, keep your receipts; Italy’s 20 percent value added tax (VAT) can be refunded at customs when you depart. For more information, click here.
The main shopping district in Venice runs along the Mercerie between Piazza San Marco and the Rialto Bridge. This is where you’ll find high-end designers like Gucci and Louis Vuitton — but if you’re on a bit more of a budget, check out the less expensive boutiques between San Polo and the Rialto Bridge. The shopping opportunities continue on nearby Frezzeria and Calle dei Fabbri.
Art lovers should visit the Galleria d’Arte l’Occhio, which showcases the work of young Italian and international artists. It’s located near the Peggy Guggenheim Collection.
You can buy glass anywhere in Venice, but the best selection (and sometimes better prices) are to be found at the source on the island of Murano. More importantly, it’s here that you can visit the workshops where the glassware is made. The best known glassmaker in the city is Venini, which produces exquisite (and pricey) works of art.
Burano is the place to go for lace, but be warned — much of the less expensive lace sold here is not produced here at all, but rather in Asia (unfortunately, even in Burano, those who make lace by hand are a dying breed). One place to get the real deal is Dalla Lidia, which offers a variety of table linens, bed sheets and other items.
Even if you don’t buy anything, you won’t want to miss a morning trip to the Rialto fish market to watch the locals examining the day’s catch. The market is open every morning except Sundays and Mondays. |
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